National Dish of Bhutan | The Ema Datsi

Ema Datsi is the national dish of Bhutan | Most popular dish in Bhutan

So what is ema datsi?

Ema Datsi is the national dish of Bhutan. The literal translation of emadatsi is Chilli and Cheese, Ema means Chilli and Datsi meaning cheese. It is one of the most popular dishes from Bhutan and it is served in restaurantsall over Bhutan.

What is the origins of ema datsi

Ema datsi has always been a signature dish in Bhutan. Chilis have remained an integral part of Bhutanese palate for centuries. Although, chilies are not indigenous to Bhutan, it is believed to have arrived via India and traders between the two countries.

It is a tradition for Bhutanese to introduce spice and chilies to their children since it is believed to increase both appetite and keep oneself stay warm. From an early age, children are given chilies in increasing increments in order to steel them for a life time of chili consumption and it is even believed to ward off evil spirits.

why do people love ema datsi

While chilies are considered a spice in other countries, Chilies are considered a vegetable in Bhutan. And chilies are the most important ingredient in Ema Datsi. Ema Datsi is also a predominant cuisine in the Bhutanese diet and most prepare for every meal. Although, no research and proper study is conducted, it is understood that Bhutanese love their ema datsi to keep one stay warm and energized during cold weather conditions.
Furthermore, Ema datsi also holds an important place in rituals and traditions in Bhutan. At every important functions, and festivities, the food menu doesn’t complete without ema datsi. It cleary indicates that Bhutanese highly er

what makes ema datsi different from other dishes

Ema Datsi has a sharp and spicy taste. Ema Datsi is primary prepared with lots of Chilies and Cheese. As a result, the flavor provides a relishing thick savory taste.
It also blends and pairs with other Bhutanese dishes easily as it is delicious and can be enjoyed alone or as part of a larger meal. Ema datsi is usually served along with other Bhutanese dishes as it combines behaves as a bridge between the different flavors.It is almost always served with red rice or white rice as it fuses the taste and takes away the hot sting of the chilies.

How is Ema datsi prepared?

Preparing ema datsi is simple. It is a simple stew made of a variety of chilies, either fresh or dried and a special cheese. One can tone down the spice levels of ema datsi by either mixing spicy chilies with non-spicy chilies or adding Mushroom and potatoes.
In terms of the cheese, the most common one used in Bhutan is Cheddar cheese which easily melts. However, Yak cheese is considered a exotic delicacy for ema datsi and it can be expensive.

How many types of ema datsi

A variety of ema datshi dishes can be prepared. Variations include, popular potatoes (kewa datshi), dried beef (shakam Datsi) or mushroom (shamu datsi). The main delicacy of ema datsi will depend on the quality of chilies and some Bhutanese prefer very spicy. And one of the best combination is to serve over a bed of red rice from Bhutan.
To create more flavoring, some people prefer to add tomatoes, peas or butter to make the soup more appetizing.

What is the process of preparing Ema Datsi

Ingredients:
(Servings: 1)
• 3-5 pieces of Bhutanese green chili, cut horizontally
• 3 cloves of garlic, preferably chopped
• 1 onion, sliced (use spring onions if you’re cooking with dried red chili)
• 2 tablespoons oil or butter
• 1 2-ounce ball homemade cottage cheese (cheese with light mold gives better flavor)
• Salt to taste

Preparation:

Wash the chili pieces and cut them into smaller horizontal pieces.
Set a pan on the stove and fill it with ½ cup of water. Now throw chili, chopped garlic, sliced onion, salt, and butter in the pan. Sprinkle a ball of cottage cheese on top.
Cover the pot and boil it on low flame for about 10 minutes. Stir and serve with red rice.

For a flavorful dish, use a combination of chilies like Anaheim, jalape and green chilies (Thai or Indian variety).
Increase or reduce the amount of chilies based on your tolerance for heat.
You can also remove the pith and ribs to reduce the heat quotient
You can use any type of cheese especially one that melts.
Avoid using stringy cheese like mozzarella.
A combination of farmer’s cheese, blue cheese & cheddar would be good.

June 10, 2020November 14, 2023

Bhutan is the only Carbon Negative country in the world

Mountain ecosystems are sensitive to the impacts of climate change and are being affected at a faster rate than other terrestrial habitats. But this vulnerable system is not at the centre of climate change debates. However, Bhutan is setting a precedent, often going it alone. Envisioned by His Majesty The King, the Snowman Race (SMR) seeks to bring the world’s attention to climate change and its impacts on the lives of people living in fragile mountain ecosystems. Themed “Honoring Eco-preneurs and Climate Champions”, Snowman Race Secretariat yesterday announced Bhutan Climate Action Summit, which will be held after the five-day Snowman Race in October this year. The one-and-a-half-day summit will circle around carbon neutrality and the urgency of the climate crisis. It is expected to bring together business leaders, governments, civil societies and academia to garner commitments and pledges of concrete actions to tackle the global climate crisis towards ensuring a sustainable world. The summit will focus on engaging the private sector in the region and beyond, with an aim to make them an integral part of climate change mitigation and adaptation efforts to galvanise global climate action. During the summit, Bhutan would award business communities of the Asia region for their commitment to carbon neutrality. It would facilitate pledges from business leaders and multinational companies towards reducing their carbon emissions and contributing to positive climate actions. It would also encourage sustainable business practices as a means to support the Nationally Determined Contributions and the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) through partnership and networking to share information, technologies and experience. Chairperson of the SMR Secretariat, Kesang Wangdi, said that the SMR and the summit would bring the climate action at the forefront to address climate change impact faced by people living in the mountains. “It will bring people together and work on how best the government organisations, non-governmental organisations and other agencies can identify climate actions in the national and global levels,” Kesang Wangdi said. “It is not Bhutan-centric and will involve people from different regions for collective and coherent action,” he added. The summit is expected to raise an innovative climate action fund to increase resilience and climate adaptation in Bhutan’s highlands and secure commitments from business leaders, partner countries and institutions. Resident Representative for UNDP Bhutan, Azusa Kubota, said that Snowman Race in itself was symbolic and representative of climate race which translated climate change message and awareness into reality. “When a tiny carbon neutral mountain Kingdom takes action, it will inspire global movement on climate change.” Twenty renowned international athletes and Bhutan’s five top athletes will run the 300km SMR through some of the toughest and dangerous trekking routes in the world. This year is considered a super policy year globally for the planet and the people; 2020 marks the start of a ‘Decade of Action’ to meet the SDGs and drive climate action. It also marks the 25th anniversary of the Fourth World Conference on Women and adoption of the Beijing Declaration and Platform for Action. This year is also a Super Year for biodiversity. Kesang Wangdi said that for Bhutan it was a super-super year because the whole SMR and the climate action summit was an offering to His Majesty The King’s 40th birth anniversary. Representatives from local and international partner agencies, including WWF Bhutan and UN in Bhutan were present during the announcement. Source: kuensel

June 7, 2020November 14, 2023

Tourism Policy – the Way Forward

View of Thimphu valley | Prayer flags of Bhutan

Under the blessed stewardship of our visionary Kings, from the very start of tourism in the early 1970s, we have always been on the right road: a road that is less travelled; a road that is globally envied; a road to a very special destination — a destination that is exclusive and happy, popularly known as “the last Shangrila”, the kingdom of Bhutan.

The policy of “high-value low-volume” has been steering this exclusive journey of Bhutan tourism for nearly five decades. Today, with a new goal to further enrich the direction, the journey and the destination, the Tourism Council of Bhutan (TCB) embraced “Taking Tourism to the Top” as an organisational motto. Taking tourism to the top has two dimensions. Firstly, it is about making Bhutan the world’s topmost tourist destination and, secondly, it is about making tourism our country’s key economic sector.

The time-tested policy of high-value low-volume has been a golden gift from His Majesty King Jigme Singye Wangchuck to his people and country since the early 1970s. This is being continuously nurtured by His Majesty King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck. Therefore, the road for Bhutan tourism has been clearly laid out by the Monarchs and it is our sacred responsibility to pass on this legacy to the future generations, in policy and practice.

However, in recent times, Bhutan tourism is being hit by rough waves. These emerging rough waves, if not manoeuvred well and in time, could be a potential threat to the exclusive journey of Bhutan tourism.

Wrong business practices of undercutting, fronting, and bad debts are on the rise, poor services, an unbalanced spread of tourism benefits, an oversupply of hotels, low yield mass tourism, overcrowding at tourist sites, and uncontrolled littering are some disturbing trends that are emerging. All these need to be prevented, minimised, and stopped at any cost. We just do not have the luxury of any other option.

Talking about the direction Bhutan tourism needs to take, we really do not have an option but to continue with Brand Bhutan, which is associated with our Monarchs, with GNH, and the high-value low-volume policy. Our vision is to take Brand Bhutan to the top of the world, make Bhutan the world’s most exclusive travel destination, and play a more meaningful role in promoting happiness for our citizens and our guests, therefore enhancing Gross Global Happiness. Therefore, our goal is to further strengthen the Bhutan brand. This means we want to make Bhutan even more exclusive and of high value.

How Do We Do This?

First and foremost, we need to put in place a comprehensive national tourism policy to provide the overall framework and direction for the development of the tourism industry. I believe the time-tested vision of high-value low-volume will be the cornerstone of the national tourism policy. The sustainable approach of high-value low-volume should consistently seek to ensure a cautious tourism industry growth within the carrying capacity of our natural environment, socio-cultural environment, service and infrastructure which meets the needs of present visitors, while enhancing and ensuring opportunities for the future. This will be best ensured through the pricing policy of a minimum daily package rate guided by the overall development philosophy of Gross National Happiness (GNH).

The policy is also expected to continue to offer Bhutan as a unique and distinctive experience to the world –- a spiritual, cultural and natural heritage — a way of life which is a living tradition for the people of Bhutan and a brand that is a significant tourist attraction.

The policy should focus on creating high value for all stakeholders involved

delivering experiential and immersive tourism experiences through better quality products and services, while earning higher revenue returns for all the local stakeholders. The high value is in terms of value for money, high revenue/yield, high-quality tourism products and services, experiential travel, good infrastructure, and the Bhutan brand.

The low-volume aspect of the policy, on the other hand, should ensure that the number of tourist arrivals is decided by the absorptive carrying capacity of our resources and services. It does not necessarily mean that there will be a reduction or restriction on the number of visitor arrivals. Put together, by high-value low-volume, we are talking about promoting and practicing targeted guests and regulated arrivals so that visitors get the best services for an exclusive experience.

Secondly, the institution and the organisation of tourism in the country need to be strengthened in terms of human resources and budget. The present organisation — the Tourism Council of Bhutan — is severely constrained in terms of human resources, both in number and quality. A sector that is today second only to hydropower, and has the real potential to lead in terms of revenue earnings and employment opportunity, deserves much more priority. As of now, TCB has just a handful of staff at the officer level, who are also bogged down with routine work, without any time for strategic planning and direction. This is a serious shortcoming that has to be addressed if tourism is to live up to the high expectations of the nation and to take advantage of the real potential it can offer.

Thirdly, the spirit of ownership and responsibility of all citizens in tourism development should be strengthened. We Bhutanese need to understand and accept that the onus and the responsibility lie on ourselves to take and keep tourism at the top. Today, it appears that we conveniently want to believe that the emerging challenges are not our creation but something being imposed upon us by some external forces and, therefore, happily wait for others to do what is necessary. I believe this gross error is the core issue that we are faced with today in the tourism sector. I would like to elaborate this point with two emerging issues — the growing litter problem and Bhutan being sold cheaper.

While tourists are contributing to the increasing litter, I believe if all Bhutanese people take care of our own litter, the litter problem at the national level would be manageable. We could lead by example. For instance, it is a common experience that when one travels to a destination like Singapore, one automatically minds one’s litter. One suddenly becomes conscious and responsible and the situation should not be any different here.

We also tend to blame overseas tour operators and agents for selling Bhutan cheaper. I believe this is wrong. We know that, under the present tourism system, no tourist can visit Bhutan without a Bhutanese ground handler. This means the Bhutanese ground handler has to agree to the price tourists pay. But, because of the cut-throat competition among the Bhutanese ground handlers, the price offered to the overseas tourist, tour operator, or an agent may be far below the set minimum rate. This is also known as undercutting, which happens to be the biggest threat to the hard-earned Brand Bhutan, a brand associated with exclusivity and high value. This situation is contributing to the emerging problem of mass tourism with a lower yield.

Fourthly, we need to all come together as one team through strong partnerships and solidarity. As tourism is multi-sectoral in nature, there is also a need to strengthen partnerships and coordination among the stakeholders in the tourism industry. The primary stakeholders — the tour operators, the hoteliers, the guides, the handicraft dealers, the transporters, including the airlines — need to develop and promote win-win business models instead of cut-throat and win-lose models, which appears to be the trend.

Let me humbly conclude with a Royal quote that inspiringly summarises the way forward for tourism in the Kingdom of Bhutan:

“…when Bhutan opened to foreign tourists in the 1970s, our leadership resisted the temptations to harness a quick fortune from mass tourism and instead, was prescient to formulate a visionary policy of high-value low-volume tourism. The wisdom of our tourism policy has led to the emergence of a strong Brand Bhutan — an exclusive destination.”

His Majesty the King, 24 May 2019.

source: Druk Journal

About Author: Dorji Dhradhul is the Director-General of Tourism Council of Bhutan since the beginning of 2019. Prior to this, he served as Dzongda (Governor) of Gasa Dzongkhag (district) for almost four years. He also authored “Escapades Awakenings”. He is also a Desuup (Guardian of Peace) since 2015.

February 24, 2020November 14, 2023

According to Lonely Planet, Bhutan is the top country to visit in 2020: here’s why we agree

Lonely Planet’s annual Best in Travel list is always a highly anticipated, hotly discussed wrap up of what’s trending around the world in the upcoming year – and the 2020 edition is no exception, with the tiny Himalayan kingdom of Bhutan clocking in at number one.

There are many reasons why Bhutan is such an appealing travel destination. For one, the majority of the country is covered in stunning natural landscapes – unspoiled pine forests and the towering Himalayan Mountains. It’s also the first carbon-negative country in the world, meaning it reduces more carbon in the atmosphere through various offsetting measures than it produces as a nation each year. Bhutan sees fewer tourists than its hotspot neighbours like India, China and Nepal, and by 2020, the aim is for all agricultural products within the country to be completely organic.

A recent traveler shares a 7 day experience from Bhutan.

Beautiful Paro. Image via Shutterstock.

“Then, after dinner, Pema and our driver showed us some traditional dancing. The little girl in the family was quite shy, and was peeking around the doorway to find out what all the noise was. It was a fun night and great to see how the locals actually live,” says Karen.

Traditional Bhutanese dancing. Image via Shutterstock.

Aside from unusual rules of hospitality, another unique thing about this Buddhist kingdom is their philosophy of happiness, which is not only a way of life but a part of government policy. Bhutan is the only country in the world that ranks Gyalyong Gakid Palzom, or Gross National Happiness (GNH), above Gross Domestic Product (GDP).

GNH is an index measuring the collective wellbeing and happiness of the people of a country. The Bhutanese government introduced it as a goal in 2008, and a portion of the population has been surveyed three times since then, with an increase in national happiness being measured each time.

GNH is calculated based on the nine domains of happiness and four pillars of GNH. The four pillars of GNH are sustainable and equitable socio-economic development, environmental conservation, preservation and promotion of culture, and good governance. The nine domains of happiness are psychological wellbeing, health, time use, education, cultural diversity and resilience, good governance, community vitality, ecological diversity and resilience, and living standards.

“I went to Bhutan thinking that it’d be a spiritual journey… that I’d be learning about Buddhism and that Buddhism is their key to happiness. But also dubious about how they could ever measure happiness and use that as a goal for development.”

“But after seeing part of the country and having interactions with the locals – including our Intrepid leader – I saw that happiness is not something you look for, but something that’ll come to you, as long as you’re down to earth, live your life diligently and with compassion, and learn to be content with what you have.

“I saw how traditions and modern development coexist, I saw people loving their home and looking after their land with great care, finding laughter at the smallest things and understanding how this can have a bigger impact than what a religion preaches.”

Karen recounted one of those smaller moments that brought the group to laughter on the first day of the tour.

“We had this one, very funny experience when we first arrived, where some of our group needed to exchange some currency for the local Nu. Pema took us to this shoe and clothes shop, which was also a currency exchange shop! It was so funny seeing the lady surrounded by shoes in this little store counting out money and doing exchanges for us.”

But there was one day in particular that helped Karen appreciate the inner happiness of the Bhutanese people most of all, when her group visited the iconic Tiger’s Nest monastery.

Tiger’s Nest. Image via Shutterstock.

“It was drizzling, and we needed to walk uphill to the monastery, which hangs off the side of the mountain. When we arrived, Pema encouraged us to do a little bit of meditation in one of the halls. Even though there were other groups coming and going, it was a moment to build a connection to yourself by simply being present. It reinforced the lesson of finding inner peace, no matter what environment you are in. For me, it was one of the most sincere moments of just ‘being there’. In a way, the monastery reminded me a bit of Bhutan overall – high up, isolated, with harsh natural conditions, but full of people who seek peace and happiness.”

source: intrepid travel

February 5, 2020November 14, 2023

Bhutan to levy Sustainable Development Fee (SDF) of Nu 1,200 per person per day for regional tourist

Tourists from the region visiting Bhutan would have to pay Nu 1,200 per night per person as sustainable development fee (SDF), according to the Tourism Levy and Exemption Bill of Bhutan 2020.

The National Assembly (NA) decided this yesterday following the recommendations of the environment and climate change committee, as a new proposal in the Bill.

However, amid concerns on whether the SDF may be a bit high, the Bill seeks to exempt regional tourists visiting 11 dzongkhags from paying the SDF. The dzongkhags are Lhuentse, Mongar, Trashigang, Trashiyangtse, Pemagatshel, Samdrupjonkhar, Tsirang, Dagana, Zhemgang, Trongsa and Sarpang.

Six eastern dzongkhags already enjoy the exemption of SDF of USD 65 on international tourists. The Bill extends the same exemption to Tsirang, Dagana, Zhemgang, Trongsa and Sarpang.

The Bill is expected to be implemented from July this year.

The exemption is to improve tourism growth in dzongkhags that do not receive many tourists. However, the exemption list does not feature Samtse.

Economic Affairs Minister Loknath Sharma expressed his regrets on the exclusion of Samtse.

“Samtse has potential in tourism development but it is one of the dzongkhags that do not receive tourists. It was unfortunate that my dzongkhag is not included in the exemption list,” he said.

Chairman of the environment and climate change committee, MP Gyem Dorji, said more studies needed to be carried out to include Samtse. “The exemption list will be updated from time to time,” he said.

Some members said the impact of the exemption of USD 65 for international tourists to the six eastern dzongkhags was yet to be seen. Suggestions for improvement of infrastructure such as roads were made.

The exemption of levy will expire on December 31, 2024, according to the Bill. It will be up to the next government to decide on whether or not the exemption will be continued.

Entry points

The levy exemption for the 11 dzongkhags has given some hope about the government’s commitment on opening additional entry and exit gates for regional tourists in line with a resolution of the first sitting of this parliament.

Prime Minister Lotay Tshering said that when the implementation of the Act begins in July or August, border gates for entry of tourists would be opened in Gelephu and Samdrupjongkhar. He said regional tourists were a major source of income for the country and people.

The Bill does not differentiate between children and adults. But it was clarified that children under five years will be exempted from SDF, while those between six years and 12 years will be levied 50 percent.

The House also weighed possible impacts on the hotel business and Bhutan’s unique image as a champion in environment and cultural preservation.

The Bill also re-phrased “high value, low impact” tourism as “high value, low volume.” It was reasoned that the high volume posed a challenged in maintaining low impact of tourism.

Phuentshogpelri MP of Samtse, Ganesh Ghimiray, asked how the government would go about should SDF affect hoteliers. “Imposition of SDF is a good idea, but it poses risks to our hoteliers,” he said.

Panbang MP Dorji Wangdi said that the SDF should be per person per trip for three years instead per person per day. He reasoned that hoteliers’ interests should be considered.

However, home minister Dasho Sherub Gyeltshen supported raising the SDF up to USD 30 as a measure to control overcrowding. “We should preserve the pristine environment and culture in the country’s interests,” he said.

Foreign Minister and chairman of Tourism Council of Bhutan (TCB), Dr Tandi Dorji, said that it was too early to predict the impact of the SDF. But he added that the government would consider fiscal incentives if the new policy affects hoteliers.

Gangzur Minjey MP Kinga Penjor said that regional tourists coming in families should be offered packages to minimise the impact on local businesses that are dependent on tourism. He said that the SDF of Nu 1,200 on each person on a daily basis could be expensive for regional tourists.

If a family of five stays for six days, the family would pay Nu 36,000 as SDF and given the high numbers of regional tourists, the country is expected to earn hundreds of millions annually. Bhutan received 202,290 regional tourists in 2018, according to official records. Regional tourists are ones that come from India, Bangladesh and the Maldives.

However, Menbi Tsenkar MP Choki Gyeltshen said that SDF alone would not improve tourism development and emphasis should be given to infrastructure development as well.

Dr Tandi Dorji said regional airports would be improved to encourage tourists. “Gradually, there would be one policy for both regional and international tourists.”

Prime Minister Dr Lotay Tshering said that the proposed SDF was the most appropriate the government could come up with.

The Bill identifies TCB as the competent authority to verify and ensure proper compliance of the tourism related law. It is also entrusted to review and recommend the revision of the tourism levy and submit a bi-annual report on tourism levy exemption to the finance ministry.

The Bill also identifies offenses, which include failure to submit supporting documents or submitting false documents. Fines will be imposed as per the Rules and Regulations of Tourism Council of Bhutan for failures to comply with the law.

The environment and climate change committee had proposed major changes, including the name of the Bill. It was first introduced as Tourism Levy Bill.

Citing many changes the committee had proposed, Panbang MP Dorji Wangdi said that government had not worked adequately on the Bill. “The Bill has been changed significantly, which shows that government didn’t do enough homework,” he said.

However, Prime Minister Dr Lotay Tshering said that the House was empowered to incorporate changes into a Bill.

Deliberations completed yesterday and the House is scheduled to adopt the Bill today. It seeks to repeal Tourism Levy Bill of 2018.

source: Kuensel

February 3, 2020November 14, 2023

Spatial Awareness Traditions are cherished in the sacred mountains of Bhutan

I spend the night above Chelala Pass, near a sky burial site that lay empty. With no body left exposed to the elements, ravens circle above but without reason to land today. Through my tent flap I watch the clouds lift, and for a moment Bhutan’s second highest mountain, Jomolhari, is revealed. With a soft rounded crest and a razor-sharp ridge leading up to the summit, this is a forbidden climb because mountains are decreed sacred in this Himalayan kingdom. I watch wisps of cloud drift about the peak while listening to the frantic flapping of prayer flags, before packing up and moving down, first detouring to the Buddhist nunnery at Kila. Earlier in my trip I had met some of the sisters in the market at Paro and they had offered to fix me breakfast.

Perched on a cliff like an eyrie, their settlement dates back 500 years. The series of dormitories, temples and prayer rooms feels precarious, hewn as much from rock as slatted together by pretty painted wood. Up at 3,500 metres above sea level, they’re snowed in for three months of the year. The nuns who make their home here are inevitably a hardy lot. Like their more familiar brethren, they also dress in swathes of crimson robes, their heads shaven, eyes cast down. I come across a group pounding mountain herbs into incense powder, each in turn lifting a wooden pole up high before driving it hard into a deep stone mortar. Backs to the cliffs, they shuffle aside to let me pass.

I was seeking out Anay Tshering, a young nun with fine spoken English who had been keen to talk. She was chewing gum when I found her, and she smiled with the same radiance as the enlightened deities in the niches of the temples. She took my hands together like a prayer, and we drank sweet tea while she explained why she had chosen to become a nun: originally out of fear of men and to avoid marriage, but added that her reasons had evolved. “It’s a simple life here,” she says. “There are no attachments. I’m independent. It’s real freedom.” She tells me she longs to go on the requisite three-year, three-month, three-day solitary retreat, and is awaiting the nod from her elders.

We are drawn to each other in spite of, or because of, our differences. “Are you not afraid of your husband?” she asks when I tell her I have three children. “We’re not married,” I reply, and she gasps. “But no, I’m not afraid of him. We are equals.” She nods. “We are also trying to be strong now. The government says we are equal. What the monks do, we can do.”

Change today is both the world’s drumbeat and its lament, and Bhutan is a case study in this dichotomy. An ancient kingdom and a fresh-faced democracy, Bhutan persists with cherished traditions, such as Buddhist rituals, national dress, vernacular architecture, and yet in other ways, including well-being and mindfulness, it’s absolutely on the edge. “When we do good things,” Anay says, “we’re repaid with ultimate happiness.” I turn to leave and feel a pang of sadness, sensing this could have become a friendship. Anay awkwardly hugs me. “I had a really great time with you,” she says. “Remember: always travel like a pilgrim.” Her words are a jolt. “How do I do that?” She shrugs, but replies, “Kindness. Love. Empathy. Happiness. Humility.”

It turned out Anay wasn’t the only one to impart sage advice. From the yak farmer to Bhutan’s first tattoo artist to a former supreme court judge, the people I met on this trip seemed to speak in proverbs. Wesel Dema works at the Gross National Happiness Centre in the capital Thimphu, which supports the well-publicised government policy of peace of mind over profit. The idea came about nearly 50 years ago when a journalist asked the last king about his country’s GDP. His reply was that quality of life can be measured in other ways.

“When was the last time you gave a donation?” Dema asks me. “Do you use your mobile too much, or watch TV? Did you vote? When did you last give someone a hug?”

“Really? There’s a government department for this?” I say.

“We want people to think about where their food comes from,” Dema continues, “to say no to packaging and waste; instead to plant trees, to help old people, not to buy everything just because they have the money.”

Staying another night in Thimphu, I wait at the clock tower for the tattoo artist Yeshey Nidup Tenzi. He arrives late, wearing military fatigues and high tops, with a long pigtail, at odds with his surrounds; many Bhutanese still dress in the traditional male goh or female kira, or at least a diluted form of this elegant national dress with its boxy wraparound jacket over draped skirts. Yeshey leads me to a rather seedy room, 202, in a nameless hotel. “I don’t have my own workshop yet,” he says apologetically. But he opens his backpack and shows me his sketches and equipment. “I can get anything now from Delhi or Bangkok,” he said. “But I used to make my tools — I used the remote from a gaming console, wire from a phone charger, acupuncture needles and an ordinary pen refill.”

Bhutan’s access to the world, and the world’s access to Bhutan, has transformed the country in the past 10 years or so, from cross-border trade with China and India to mobile-phone coverage and an engaged social media, as well as an increase in visitors. Recently there’s been a shot of tourism investment in the country with some big-name lodges opening and existing hotels upgrading. Yet the allure for many is still to witness the slower way of life and the very different way Bhutan operates. For example, Yeshey says he charges according to customers’ circumstances, and is happy to work for nothing. I believe him.

Down the road Namgay Zam pulls up her trouser leg and points out the lyrics of Blue Moon inked upon her ankle, drawn freehand by Yeshey she says. “I’m a crazy Man City fan,” she says, referring to the football team’s anthem. The effervescent campaign journalist is also passionate about feminism, LGBTQ and mental health—new issues for the country, but ones they do not seem afraid of tackling. “The Royal Bhutan Police just apologised at a LGBTQ workshop for not treating their community right,” Namgay says. “They stood up and said sorry.”

At the age of 33, Namgay’s influence is far-reaching, with a Facebook following of more than 55,000 amounting to nearly 10 per cent of the country’s population. Sitting outside a cafe in Thimphu, passers-by stop to say hello. She calls herself a monarchist, but not a royalist; a loyal Buddhist but who believes the religious rituals to be “expensive and unnecessary”, a proponent of education for all, but who’s also aware that that means “more monks drop out and end up in New York as taxi drivers”. She disparages Gross National Happiness as “a bit of a charade”. “I mean, not to be happy in Bhutan is okay,” she says.

I eat momo dumplings with a friend of hers, Karma Tshering Wangchuk, a blogger with a huge base of his own. He set up his Instagram account Bhutan Street Fashion to showcase the rural/urban trend for mixing fashion. “The 1990s were the worst time when my generation thought tradition was regressive and everyone wanted to wear jeans, and we started to look the same. But we’re embracing our culture now—vintage, colours, inherited jewellery and craftsmanship. Our identity is only getting stronger.”

Karma’s parents can’t read or write, let alone use social media, so “they’ll never understand what I do,” he says. It’s evidence of an unthinkable generational shift. Sonam Loday is my guide and until recently his mother paid her taxes in woven textiles in part because of their worth, but also because she couldn’t read. In contrast, her son, articulate and insightful, has talked in Europe on Bhutanese culture. A former judge, Dasho Benji, also the founder of the Royal Society for Protection of Nature in Bhutan, tells me the park rangers of old used to “paint marks on trees, get paid, get drunk and beat up their wives. Nowadays, they’re scientists, carrying cameras and binoculars, recording data and finding new species. It’s a maturing of a nation.”

I travel on to Punakha, a glorious remote valley where we pass pedestrians carrying firewood, sacks of dried chillies and babies on their backs. As our car approaches, they move to the side of the road and bow. Sonam, my guide, nods proudly: “It’s this degree of humility that I love about my country,” he says. On another day, an old man respectfully removes his hat and nods, as we roll past.

Up in the hills, I stop at an elementary school to meet the headmaster who explains the challenges of educating students in the countryside. “I tell them not to study for a job but to study for life,” he says. “Be a farmer like your parents, but be an educated one by choosing organic farming, for example.” I spend the morning at his immaculately kept school chatting with children who all speak English, the language of instruction (alongside the national language of Dzongkha). They had performed a flag-raising ceremony at the outdoor assembly and then put their hands together and closed their eyes, “to learn about concentration and mindfulness,” the head explained. When I speak to the eight- and nine-year-old schoolchildren directly, they say “it helps us to study and think more deeply.”

Further east, my favourite place in Bhutan is the ethereally beautiful Gangtey. Starting at Thoula pass, I hike into the valley through forests of rhododendron, azalea and juniper. Bushy-tailed squirrels scramble for cover and I spot a lone blood pheasant. We come across a family of semi-nomadic yak herders, who are employing an oracle to exorcise bad spirits from their camp; he’s making figurines out of dough and chanting. We drink tea together and discuss the upcoming election.

Towards the end of the trek we stop at a local monastic college where I meet Thinley Rabgye Thaye, who is a revered reincarnation. He’s only 20, but I cannot deny that he has an assuredness and serenity beyond his years. “Change is good,” is almost his opening gambit. “Of course, change can cause an unravelling of trust and you can’t help but be concerned for our culture… but be good, and it will be good,” he says smiling. “I am excited by the future.”

Source: VanityFair London: https://www.vanityfair.com/london/2019/02/bhutan-spatial-awareness

September 6, 2019April 26, 2024

How Thimphu was chosen as the new capital of Bhutan

Thimphu bhutan | why capital of bhutan was Thimphu

“The favourable aspects of a site in Thimphu valley have made it eminently suitable for the capital.” A recently discovered report titled, “New Capital for Bhutan in the Thimphu Valley,” dated April 1963, reasons why Thimphu was eminently suitable as the new capital of Bhutan.

The first reason was that Thimphu was suitable for round-the-year living. It was also found that the practice of shifting the capital from Thimphu to Punakha during the winter was found expensive for the state. Although the report does not state, it implies that by moving the capital permanently to Thimphu, the state would be absolved of this financial burden.

Secondly, the proposed site for the capital adjoins the Tashichhodzong and it would be in the proximity of His Majesty’s Palace. In the life of the Bhutanese, these two institutions are of great significance.

Thirdly, Thimphu had the land required for housing a population of 12,000 to 20,000. Fourthly, Thimphu could be reached in about 10 to 15 hours from the Indian airstrip of Hasimara. This factor was considered of great consequence in a country where access in the mountainous terrain was hazardous, time consuming and expensive.

Fifthly as the site of the capital, Thimphu could maintain effective control on movement in the highways from the north as well as from the South.

Sixthly, the physical features of Thimphu made it scenic and impressive. Located at an altitude of 8,000 ft. and in between two sub-Himalayan ranges rising sharply to about 12,000 ft., Thimphu provided a good aspect for the capital. Lastly, Thimphu commanded a perennial source of water supply. The terrain was found suitable for good drainage and sewage disposal systems.

The Report

The neatly typed seven-page report has been classified under four broad categories. The categories are; Preliminary Framework of the capital, Social Base, Economic Base and fourthly the Plan. Under each broad category there are subsections. For example under the first category, the subheadings are, “ Need for a governmental centre, the Site and Scope of Planning. Given the significance of the historical data extracts of the report are being reproduced.

The Contents

Under the first broad heading of Preliminary framework of the capital, the need for a governmental centre is justified as “ the opening of the 120 mile highway from Phuntsholing to the Thimphu valley and beyond augurs an era of a development and progress in Bhutan. Activities of varied nature will spring up a consequence of the inter-communication made possible by the highway. It is appropriate that a governmental centre, from which the nation building activities can be conceived, directed, co-ordinated and controlled, be established and developed.”

In the scope of planning, the report states that, “the planning of a township of the size envisaged in a country such as Bhutan, presents problems of adaptation common to all places where such work is being done for the first time. Such problems as arises need to be solved during the first five-year development. The resources of the country have to be harnessed and geared to this end. This work itself will be the bulk of the programme for the first five years. The growth of the township immediately after this period will be faster. It is possible for the capital to reach the planned size in about 15 years on the whole. A comprehensive plan for 15 years has been envisaged.”

Point 2.1 is classified as Population and its characteristics; “ In the absence of Census data, population estimates can be made only approximately, based on the employment potential of the community. An estimate of the total employment generated in the capital at Thimphu is worked out in paragraph three. It is assumed that the family size will continue to be between three and four persons. Adjustments for factors such as average life expectation, fertility rate, infant mortality, etc., are made on the basis of available information. The estimate of population is as follows:

1967, 5,000 persons, 1972, 7,000 persons, 1977, 10,000-12,000 persons may achieve a high figure of 20,000.”

The report states that the housing policy for the capital must include the provisions to be made by the various departments of the government to house their staff, the extent to which private housing will come up in the capital and also on the clusters to which the Bhutanese workers would like to move in the capital. Adaptations of the prevalent building techniques in rubble, rammed earth and timber will have to be evolved. The resources for putting up a large number of buildings need to be studied.

To realise the housing facilities demanded, the report assumes that Bhutanese who move to the new capital will continue to build on developed land made available to them. The houses would be similar to or a little improved versions over the traditional adobe houses. It is expected of the government to build houses for their employees on a scale determined by the number of institutions set up in the new capital.

The report states that the extent of development of Thimphu town will span over an area of 700 acres. However, only 400 acres will be used for the development of the town and the balance of 300 acres will be used for agricultural purposes.

The report proposes to keep a provision for an orchard or alternatively a plantation. The designated area would be north of the Tashichhodzong and cover an area of 20-25 acres. It will also have an agricultural experimental station with a piggery and poultry.

The consultants estimate the rate of development of Thimphu as Rs. 8,000 per acre. The town plan is based on the population estimate of 12,000 with a maximum projection of 20,000 people living in the capital city. The city dwellers were categorised in five income groups starting from those earning Rs. 300 per month to 1,200 per month. Subsistence farmers are also included in the category.

The report proposes to have a police force of 50 personnel, a school with enrolment of 300-400 and ultimately 600 students. At that time, there was already a hospital and the report recommends adding a T.B Ward to the hospital.

The April report has a list of maps. Out of the 11 maps, only three were attached to the report; Housing Layout, Road Hierarchy and the Design Report for the Water Supply & Drainage Scheme of the City at Thimphu Valley-Bhutan. The missing eight maps are, Comprehensive Plan 1962-77, Plan for the first stage, Housing Sector D, Housing Sector C, House Design, Perspective of Cluster, Industrial District, Plot and Building Analysis and lastly the Road Hierarchy.

One of the first documents reflecting the intentions of His Late Majesty to make Thimphu the capital is reflected in a letter dated 3 June 1962. While details are not available, apparently, the Royal Government of Bhutan wrote the letter to the Director of Indian Institute of Technology, Kharagpur to review the terms of contract.

The outcome of the letter was the first town plan meeting held in Phuntsholing. The meeting was held on 9 August. The Bhutanese delegation was led by Dasho Lhendup Dorji and consisted of Rai Bahadur T.D. Densapa, Sri M.S Nair and Sri O.P Mathur. The two Indian professors, Prof. R.K. Dhar and A. Subbakrishniah from the Indian Institute of Technology travelled from Kharagpur to Phuntsholing to present the preliminary plan in the form of 22 points. Nine months later, in April 1963, the seven-page report, “New Capital for Bhutan in the Thimphu Valley,” was drafted.

The process of shifting the capital to Thimphu started much earlier. In 1952, His Majesty the Second Druk Gyalpo passed away and his dying wish was for his son to move the capital from Bumthang to Thimphu. After completing all the funeral rites His Late Majesty the Third Druk Gyalpo and Her Majesty Ashi Kesang Choeden Wangchuck moved to Paro and embarked on setting up Thimphu as the new capital of Bhutan.

written by Tshering Tashi, published in Kuensel

July 25, 2019April 26, 2024

19 ESSENTIAL THINGS YOU MUST KNOW BEFORE PLANNING A TRIP TO BHUTAN

Written by Norbert, re-edited 2019

Nestled in the Himalayas, the Kingdom of Bhutan is one of the most stunning destinations that few travelers make it to due to its location, cost, or travel logistics.

As the only Vajrayana Buddhist nation in the world, Bhutan counts with a strong cultural heritage, a harmonious society, and a varied natural scenery that ranges from Himalayan mountains on the north to lush jungles on the south.

This all sounds beautiful and paradisiac –and in my opinion, it is– but since Bhutan is not your typical holiday destination, there are several things you must take into consideration before planning your trip to “The Last Shangri-La.”

1. You need a visa to enter the country

Except for Indians, Bangladeshis, and Maldivians, all other nationalities require a visa to enter Bhutan.

Indian, Bangladeshis and Maldivian nationals can fly in or go to the border with a valid passport with a minimum of six-month validity (Indian citizens may also use their Voters Identity Card [VIC]). All other tourists must obtain a visa clearance via their tour company before traveling to Bhutan.

You are required to send the photo-page of your passport to your tour operator who will then apply for your visa. At your point of entry, you will be required to show your visa clearance letter (emailed to you by your tour company), so immigration then stamps your official visa in your passport.

2. You must hire a tour company

Unfortunately, it is not possible to travel Bhutan independently (except for Indian, Bangladeshis, and Maldivians).

Westerners must hire a tour company to get their visas to Bhutan approved. Not only that but once you’re in Bhutan, you’re not allowed to roam freely between cities – only with your tour guide. There are checkpoints between zones (regions) where your visa is verified along with the tour company’s documents.

Having said that, you’re free to roam around within the city or hike trails in the surrounding areas on your own, as long as you don’t hike from one city to the other.

Another plus of having a tour company is that they will take care of everything for you, so you just relax and enjoy the moment.

Kids having lunch at a monastery.

3. The visa costs $250 per day or more (or maybe a bit less)

It sounds expensive, and maybe it is for a budget traveler, but, the visa includes everything in your tour, so basically your visa is your tour. The reason for the high visa cost is because Bhutan is focusing on “high value, low volume” tourism, as my guide shared with me. The high cost will “control” the number of tourists coming into the country, thus enhancing the individual, “almost exclusive” experience you have there.

Your visa fee includes a three-stars hotel, private transportation (a jeep, mostly), a guide, driver, all the entrance fees, tea, water, and meals. What’s not included are drinks other than tea and water (like sodas and beers), souvenirs, tips, insurance (unless stated), and other expenses not specified by the tour company. Additionally, $65 of those $250 are the Royal Fee and go to the government to fund the country’s health and education system.

Of the daily visa fee, $50 goes to your three-star hotel booking. Should you want a more luxurious hotel – four or five-stars – you could ask for it, but you will need to pay for the daily difference in price. For example, if a five-star hotel costs $400 a night, you will subtract the $50 from the visa and pay a difference of $350 per night (totaling $600 per day including the visa). The average extra cost for a five-star hotel is $300 more per day, depending on the hotel and season.

The Zhiwa Ling Hotel. Designed with Bhutanese traditional architecture.

The view from my room at the Zhiwa Ling Hotel.

4. You can either fly or enter the country overland

Flying is the most common method to reach Bhutan, but you must know that there’s only one international airport in the country, located in the city of Paro – one hour away from Thimphu – the capital city.

Only three airlines fly to Bhutan: Druk Air, Bhutan Airlines, and Buddha Air (just charter flights). Flights to Bhutan only depart from Nepal, India, Bangladesh, and Thailand. Malaysia and Indonesia are seasonal departure points. If your tour doesn’t include flights, I recommend checking for flights on Skyscanner.com. A trick that often helps me save money is to buy two separate roundtrips: one from your home country to one of the countries mentioned above, and then another from that “middle country” to Bhutan. Often comes cheaper, but not always, so check both options.

Entering overland is possible from India, but not from Tibet/China.

Also worth noting about Paro Airport is that landing there is one of the most interesting, if not scary, landings I’ve ever experienced. The airport is wedged in between mountains, so pilots have to do some serious maneuvering and turns to reach the landing strip.

Paro Airport. Also designed with traditional architecture (as most buildings in the country).

5. It is possible to go camping and do homestays (sort of)

While you can’t downgrade to lower star level hotels, you can do homestays. Having said that, Bhutan’s homestays are not like the typical homestay program where you stay at someone’s home. In Bhutan, you can stay in farmhouses in the countryside, but they operate like a hotel, with hotel standards (western standards). On the plus side, you eat with the family on every meal.

Camping is also possible, especially if you’re doing multi-day hikes across the country or in more remote regions. When trekking, the camping experience is more like regular camping, but you have a cook, horses to carry your stuff, and a guide. If you’re not trekking, then the camping experience is more like “glamping,” where you’ll have a traditional Bhutanese tent and have the “luxury” of a hotel room in a tent.

Even when camping or doing a homestay you must pay the visa’s full price as every tourist in Bhutan is required to have a car, driver, guide, meals, and hotel (or some sort of accommodation).

6. You can go anywhere in the country

When you plan your trip, you will either tell your tour company where you want to go or they will suggest popular places to go. It is possible to go anywhere in the country, but it has to be arranged beforehand to get the zone travel permits – especially if it’s a special zone. You can change plans during your trip too, but they shouldn’t be last minute changes (like same day or maybe next day). If you’re changing the day before or same day, you will need to pay the hotel cancellation fees.

It takes time for your guide to rearrange everything and get zone permits if you’re going to a different zone than previously planned. Be aware that changing plans will incur some extra costs, as expected. It is also possible to extend your stay if your visa allows it (or if you extend your visa).

Most travelers don’t go to the east side of the country but it’s only because of logistics and lack of tourism infrastructure in the region, but that is slowly changing as new airports open in those zones, make tourism more accessible.

7. Expect really spicy food

Bhutanese eat chili for breakfast, snacks, lunch, and dinner. I was told that they believe any meal without chili pepper is an unworthy meal, and I think that’s sort of true. If you’re into spicy food, then you’ll feel like you’re in heaven. On the other hand, if spicy food is not your thing –like me– you can ask them to make non-spicy dishes when you have the option of ordering food.

Your guide will ask you on the first day about any dietary restrictions or allergies, so this would be a good time to let him know if you don’t like spicy food or anything else. Most meals will be buffet style, so, unfortunately, most dishes they cook will have some spice (but sometimes they accommodate you with a non-spicy batch if ordered). For some non-buffet restaurants, your guide will tell you the meal options to choose about 45 minutes to an hour before lunch/dinner, so your food will be ready once you arrive.

The country’s national dish, ema datse, is a spicy curry of chilies and farmer’s cheese; paired with nutty red rice. It is also topped off with ezay salsa, which is also made from dried chilies.

8. Expect to see a lot of phallic symbols. It’s not porn!

Don’t be alarmed by Bhutan’s phallic obsession. It’s part of their culture and religion! You’ll see penises painted on doorways, across walls, and even as giant sculptures or souvenirs. This phallic worship is a nod to the teachings of Drukpa Kunley, a revered saint who traveled the country teaching a new form of Buddhism—through sex.

You’ll learn about him, his teachings, and how the phallic symbol came to be part of their Buddhism throughout your trip. To me, he sounded like a horny monk who wanted to have sex with everyone (even with a cow), but hey, this is part of the interesting history of Bhutan.

There’s even a temple in the Punakha Valley, called Chime Lhakhang, where couples trying to have a kid visit it to meet with the monk, pray, make an offering. Women with fertility problems hold a wooden penis about two feet tall and give three rounds around the temple while holding it on their chest like a baby. It’s a local ritual for fertility.

Chime Lhakhang temple.

9. Bring US Dollars and expect Indian Rupees in return

While you can use the local currency, the Ngultrum (or Nu for short), it is convenient to take US dollars for any souvenir purchase, tips, or drinks. Get whatever cash you need at the ATM at the airport as there are not a lot of ATMs in the country. Major cities do have several, though. But, don’t get too much cash, as almost everything is included on your tour. I withdrew the equivalent of $60 in Nu for a week and had some extra by the end of the trip.

It is normal to pay in Nu or USD and receive Indian Rupees in return. The Nu and the Indian Rupee are paired one to one, so it is accepted almost everywhere in the country. Also, candy can be a form of “change” if they don’t have any small currency available.

10. Astrology is big in Bhutan

Whether you like astrology or not, you’ll learn a lot about it in Bhutan. This study of the movements and relative positions of celestial objects is so prominent in the country that it is consulted even to build a house, have children, get cremated, and so on.

Be respectful with what your guide says about astrology (even if you don’t believe in it) since it is an essential aspect of their culture.

108 white flags commemorating the dead. 108 is an important number in Buddhism.

11. Mountaineering is forbidden in the country

Hiking is possible up to 6,000m in elevation. Peaks under that altitude are considered trekking peaks. Anything above that is considered mountaineering, and it is forbidden as the mountains are sacred for the Bhutanese. Snow peaks are considered the domain of the gods and goddesses, and it is believed that if you go there, they’ll get disturbed – bringing hail storms, drought, floods, etc.

The Tiger’s Nest, nestled atop a mountain (at about 3,100 meters above sea level). This is the most famous site in Bhutan.

The story goes that in the 80s, a Japanese team tried to climb Jomolhari Mountain’s 7,300 meters’ peak (where the mountain goddess lives) from the Bhutanese side, but died in the attempt. According to my guide, two more teams tried but he’s not sure if they were successful (according to Wikipedia, it has been summited since 1937, though from Tibet). Then on 1988 and 1989, a huge drought came, affecting the crops of the country. Then when they finally harvested, a rainstorm came, damaging, damping and rotting the rice grains. Farmers consulted astrologers, who told them the goddess of the mountain had been disturbed. Since then, climbing has been forbidden in Bhutan.

12. Summer is monsoon season

When planning your trip, take into consideration what you’d want to see and the seasons. Spring and fall are often considered the best times to visit, especially if you’re going hiking as the skies are mostly clear and the temperature is not too hot or cold. Also, September to November are considered their tourism high season months.

Winter will give you the clearest views of the snowcapped Himalayas, but you run the risk or not reaching some of the most mountainous regions since several roads are closed when there’s heavy snowfall.

Summer, on the other hand, brings heavy rains. And even when it isn’t rainy, clouds and fog tend to hover the sky and cover some of the best views. I visited during the summer, and though I couldn’t appreciate the clearest views of the mountains, I didn’t get any rain.

13. Take proper clothing

Dzongs are some of the most impressive buildings in Bhutan, and you shouldn’t miss seeing them. A Dzong is a traditional building that is half a temple and half municipal offices. Basically, in Bhutan, there’s no separation of “church and state.”

When visiting a Dzong or any monastery, make sure you are dressed properly; otherwise, you won’t be allowed in their interior spaces. Proper clothing consists of long pants and long sleeve shirts/t-shirts. Jeans are acceptable (as is casual clothing) as long as they cover your arms and legs. Closed shoes are also required. Should you have a jacket, you’re not supposed to wear it around your waist or have it unbuttoned or unzipped. You can’t wear caps or hats inside the monasteries, but it’s ok to have them in the courtyards and outdoor spaces.

In front of Paro Dzong, with the typical attire I used to go in the Dzongs.

For my trip, since it was during the summer and relatively hot, I traveled with a day pack with a pair of jeans and a long sleeve shirt. Every time I went to a Dzong, I wore them over my shorts and short sleeve t-shirt. It was easy to put on and take off.

Naturally, since Bhutan is nestled in the Himalayas, it’s always good to carry at least a jacket as even during the summer it gets cold up the mountains, especially at night.

14. Want to stay connected? Get a local SIM card.

While there is a mobile network in the country, their service and coverage is still a hit and miss. Some cell phone providers (from your country) might allow roaming there, but most still don’t. You should verify with your company.

Alternatively, if you want to stay connected, you can get a local SIM card for tourists. You’ll need your passport to get it. But again, the service is hit and miss and only works (mostly) in the city. Some hotels have Wifi, but it is also not that reliable and mostly slow.

The local SIM card for tourists with Tashi Cell costs 600 Nu (about $9). It includes 300 Nu for calls and text and 2GB of 3G data. You can add more internet as needed. The SIM card with Bhutan Mobile costs 100 Nu (about $1.50) and includes 100 Nu of talk. Data Charges are based on pay per use at 0.0003 Nu per kb.

Unrelated to this point, but did you know that Thimphu is the only capital city in the world with no traffic lights? It only has a few traffic police stands like this one.

15. Bring your own smokes

Bhutan banned the sale and production of tobacco. Smoking is prohibited in public places but allowed privately. Tourists and Bhutanese can bring in up to 200 cigarettes. Before smoking, it is recommended you ask your guide to find you a place to smoke, so it doesn’t get you or your guide in trouble.

Hotels, some local bars, and restaurants have indoor smoking rooms, and some nightclubs informally allow it after dark.

Many locals smoke and buy their cigarettes from local “dealers,” but don’t count on buying yours from them as they only sell to familiar faces. So, better bring yours.

Lastly, smuggling tobacco (outside the allowed cigarettes) could get you three years in prison, so don’t do it.

16. Don’t smoke weed

Cannabis grows almost everywhere in the country, freely. Interesting enough, Bhutan was the last country to introduce the radio –in 1988– and the TV and internet came in 1999 (also the last country to get these). Bhutanese didn’t know about weed smoking until the TV came and they saw Bob Marley as an inspiration for it. Now it is considered illegal, and if found in possession it could land you five years in prison.

What’s even more interesting is that before they “discovered” it could be smoked, locals used to collect the cannabis, chop it, boil it, and give it to the pigs. Talk about happy pigs!

17. Don’t go into taboo subjects and don’t disrespect the royals

Your guide will be well informed and will probably answer every question you have about the country, but be mindful about controversial topics as they will steer away from them, especially the Bhutanese refugees issue from the 1990s issue.

Bhutan is a constitutional monarchy since 2007. Criticizing the royal family is almost considered as blasphemy since they are seen as incarnations of gods.

Other than this, your guide, who will always be dressed with the traditional gho(if male) or kira (if female), will feed you tons of useful information about religion, culture, and anything you want to know about Bhutan.

With my guide and driver, both wearing the gho.

18. Practice the Dha

The Dha, or archery, is Bhutan’s national sport. Tell your tour guide to plan some time to take you to an archery field as it’s an activity that foreigners are encouraged to participate in. Most towns have an archery field.

Otherwise, watch a local match with some of the world’s best archers, which I’m sure will impress you.

19. Don’t have enough time to visit much? Go to Paro and Punakha

Ideally, you’ll have enough time to visit places like Paro, Thimphu, Punakha, and more. But if time (or budget) don’t allow you to stay there for long, focus on visiting Paro and Punakha. In Paro, you’ll see the Paro Dzong, and not far from it you’ll be able to hike to the famous Tiger’s Nest. This semi-challenging hike takes half a day (about two to three hours up, and one to two hours down, depending on your pace) but it is worth every step. You’ll go from 2,500 meters in height up to 3,100 meters, where the temple is nested.

Phunaka Dzong

In Punakha you’ll see one of the most beautiful and biggest Dzongs in all of Bhutan. It is very picturesque, and if you’re feeling adventurous, you can go whitewater rafting on the river that flows in front of it (though its rapids classification is quite low).

Bhutan might be expensive to visit for a budget traveler, but trust me, it is worth seeing as this is one of the few countries in the world where you’ll still feel like stepping into a completely foreign, non-westernized, environment.

source: globotreks by Norbert

December 31, 2018November 14, 2023

Farmhouse in Bhutan: the ultimate Bhutanese experience in 2021

Afternoon tea arranged outside Aum Leki's farmhouse with traditional zaw (fried and salted rice grains)

Do you ever wish to rewind your childhood days ?

–No high-rise buildings, no air conditioned room- simply a cosy house with a nice farm upfront and a surrounding courtyard.

This is exactly what farmhouses in Bhutan have to offer!

Bhutan farmhouses are a unique accommodation option if you want a special, authentic taste of Bhutanese tradition. Agriculture still remains a major source of livelihood among the Bhutanese people. Therefore, a farm-stay will provide you an excellent glimpse into the day-to-day life of a typical Bhutanese family.

As a travel agent that seeks to provide the best hospitality to our guest, we make sure that you get the most unique and exceptional experience of a Bhutanese lifestyle.

With us, you’ll be able to discover ancient Bhutanese farming traditions as the family goes about its daily tasks. Likewise, you’ll also enjoy delicious home-cooked meals and the exceptional hospitality of a Bhutanese host.

All officially accredited and listed farmhouses are located in the countryside of Bhutan, amidst lush farmland distant from the noise and crowd of the city centers.

Aum Leki Wangmo’s Farmhouse

Amongst hundreds of farmhouses in Bhutan, Aum Leki’s farmhouse in Punakha, is one of our best handpicked farm-stays you will ever come across.

This is fairly because you will be able to relish the scenic beauty of Punakha valley along with getting a taste of delicious meals cooked by the host herself. Additionally, Leki Wangmo farm-stay also provides hot stone bath facilities , which is nice during the winter months.

Aum Leki, who is the owner of the farm-stay is a very welcoming host who bestows the best hospitality to her guests. The house itself is probably new but very cosy.

The front rooms present a breath taking view of the Punakha valley and you can even experience the beautiful sun rise view as dawn awakens life, with Himalayan ranges and open valley right under your nose.

The exhilarating view of the morning sun rise - captured from Aum leki's farmhouse — The exhilarating view of the morning sun rise – captured from Aum Leki’s farmhouse

2. An oasis of pleasure

Moreover, a pleasant weather can allow you to have food outside with fresh wind gently tousling your hair. Likewise, even having a warm cup of coffee with a wonderful glimpse of the gratifying sunrise and sunset, can fill your heart with utmost contentment.

A small and a nice area outside Aum Leki's farmhouse to have meals or a simple tea. — A small yet a nice area outside Aum Leki’s farmhouse to have meals or a just a simple tea

Lunch arrangement by Aum leki at her farm stay for her guests.

3. Hospitality beyond borders

Also, you can get a good insight of the daily lifestyle of locals. One can witness the local villagers engaged in the rice fields giving it a rural sense, which is the best part about it.

Four rooms in the farmhouse are exclusively arranged for guests that include:

bathrooms attached to the availability of hot water
in-room heaters
Western-style toilets

Moreover, rooms are spacious enough so that you don’t face any inconvenience during your stay. Aum Leki and her family live in the rest of the house. Thus, making her guests a part of her family by eating meals together in the living room in a circle. What’s more facilitating is that Aum Leki has a hot stone bath facility whereby you can soak in the traditional bathtub sprinkled with natural artemisia herbs and heated with fire-roasted river stones.

It soothes the body as well as rejuvenates your soul!
In addition, she can also arrange campfires on requests where her family members together with neighbors dance and sing, entertaining the guests. Hence, you will be able to connect with locals and share unique experiences in a different world.

Farmhouse of Aum leki has a warm and cosy room for guests. — Cosy room for guests at Aum Leki’s farmhouse

4. Celebrate farm flavors

At aum Leki’s farmhouse, one gets to taste the authentic Bhutanese cuisine prepared by aum Leki herself with vegetables harvested fresh and organic from the garden, next to the farmhouse.

The menu is sourced from what’s available in season. In:

Spring, you would possibly find fiddlehead ferns and green spinach besprent into curries;
Summer, asparagus;
Fall, succulent matsutake mushrooms—
and in winter, potato and turnip curries topped over red rice

Besides local vegetables, you can also taste specialities of different regions in Bhutan like Khulay ( buckwheat pancake) of Bumthang.

Delicious meal prepared by Aum leki — Bumthnag *Khula*y ( buckwheat pancake) with *Kewa Datshi* (potato-cheese curry) prepared by Aum Leki

5. Rediscover serenity

Furthermore, from Aum Leki’s farmhouse you can hike up to Talo monastery and to Norbugang village

–a popular village known to be the birth place of the four wives of the fourth king of Bhutan. Also not far is Nalanda Buddhist College where you will encounter monks who are always eager to speak English.

It is an ideal place to stay if you want to connect with the indigenous livelihood of the country. So, be part of a family this time instead of spending thousands of dollars at a 5-star hotel where you are just a guest.

The farmhouse of Aum Leki in Punakha offers this, the perfect opportunity!

So, roll up your sleeves and be prepared to pitch in Aum Leki’s farmhouse and discover a thrilling experience of the ages.

Are you excited to immerse yourself in this amazing journey? Talk to us.

December 13, 2018April 16, 2024

Visas for Bhutan: Your Step-by-step Guide On Getting It

a step by step guide to getting a visa fro Bhutan

One of the most mysterious countries in the world, Bhutan government has strict control on the numbers of tourist visiting the country. This policy has been implemented since the 80s, to protect and maintain Bhutan’s unique culture and environment. Today, more and more people are attracted to this last sanctuary on Earth to unveil the mystery. Now let’s go through the steps to get the visas for Bhutan.

Image credit: Aymaan Ahmed

As mystery as the country, it is confusing how to apply for a travel visa to Bhutan as there isn’t a Bhutanese embassy in most countries. It may seem troublesome at first glance, but let us guide you through this journey step-by-step and you’ll realise that it is much easier than you think!

1. Fix a travel date

Being a popular holiday destination, it is always a good idea to plan early, especially during holiday seasons. The peak seasons are in Spring and Autumn when the air is crisp and clear, and the climate is dry and cool. We recommend setting aside at least one to two months for the visa application!

Image credit: Robert GLOD

2. Find a Bhutanese travel agent

After fixing the travel dates, you will have to find a registered Bhutanese travel agent to apply travel visas on your behalf. As Bhutan has not established formal diplomatic relations with most of the countries, Bhutanese government required all tourists that wish to visit Bhutan to apply the travel visas through a registered Bhutanese travel agent or their international partners. You can find the list of registered Bhutanese travel operators on Bhutan Tourism website.

After deciding on which travel operator to go with, the process is pretty simple – where you will just require to submit a colour copy of your passport and pay a fee of USD 40 to the travel agent for visa application.

Image credit: Göran Höglund (Kartläsarn)

3. Book a tour with the travel operator

Bhutanese government does not allow tourist traveling in Bhutan independently without joining a tour or having a tour guide. Hence, all travelers to Bhutan are required to book themselves a tour with their respective travel operators. Travellers can discuss with their travel operators where to go and visit in Bhutan, and they will arrange the schedule for you.

If you are travelling solo to Bhutan, fret not, the travel operator will also arrange a driver and tour guide for you during your stay!

Note: If you are holding a passport from India, Bangladesh or Maldives, you do not require a travel visa nor sign up for a tour to visit Bhutan.

Image credit: Göran Höglund (Kartläsarn)

4. Pay the fee

After deciding on which tour package to take, visitors have to pay the fee according to the number of nights staying in Bhutan, according to the Bhutanese government policy. Part of this fee paid is used in supporting free education, healthcare and poverty alleviation in Bhutan.

Image credit: Robert GOLD

Every foreigner visiting the country has to pay a minimum fee of USD 200 per person per day (USD 250 per person per day during the peak season, which is between March to May and September to November). The fee includes accommodation, three meals a day (soft drinks and alcohol not included), transportation, driver, tour guide, attractions entrance fees, and tax. The quality of service is pretty up to standard, so sit back and relax as everything is arranged by your tour operator.

Do note that tourists travelling in a group of two or less will be subjected to a surcharge, in addition to the minimum daily package rates. Single travellers will have to pay USD 40 per night, and groups of two will be charged USD 30 per person per night. This surcharge is not imposed on representatives of foreign travel agents on business study or promotional visit duly approved and cleared by the Tourism Council of Bhutan.

Upon receiving your payment, your travel operator will then start to apply for your travel visa. It usually takes one to four weeks, depending on the seasons.

Be mindful that some travel companies may offer a lower price, which is illegal – the travel visa might not be done properly and you may end up to be refused from entering Bhutan!

Image credit: Juan Carlos Madrigal

5. Get your visa when arriving at Bhutan

After the travel visa application is approved, your travel operator will provide you with a scanned copy, which must be printed out, as you will be asked to show the printed copy when clearing customs at the Paro Airport in Bhutan. The officer will then issue you the official travel visa accordingly.

Image credit: Göran Höglund (Kartläsarn)

6. If you’re canceling your trip…

If something crops up and you are no longer traveling to Bhutan, you have to notify your travel company at least 30 days before the travel date to request for a full refund. If you cancel the trip 21 days before the travel date, 10% of the fee will be deducted. For notice shorter than 7 days, 50% of the fee will be deducted. If you only cancel your trip after arriving in Bhutan, you will not get any refund.

Image credit: Mai An Hoa

Now you’re all set – ready for your next trip to Bhutan? [tg_button href=”https://www.alwaysbhutan.com/enquire-now/” color=”red” bg_color=”” text_color=””]BOOK YOUR TRIP NOW[/tg_button]

Written by
Sophie Yong

Always eating something, or on her way finding good food, Sophie has the ultimate dream of becoming a full-time traveller and freelance writer to share her travel and food-hunting story. Interested in learning new languages, she has learned French, Japanese and Vietnamese, and hopes to speak like the natives in future. Things she enjoys? French pastries, Impressionism artworks, non-fiction books, Korean drama, and a good cup of coffee (or wine!).